Costa Rica Tour and Panama Cruise with CruiseWest
The Indigenous Emberá People of Panama * Photos and text by Jack Yeazel
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GENERAL:
Europeans first discovered the region in 1501, and Christopher Columbus sighted Emberá on his fourth voyage in 1503.  The Spanish established the first European colony in South America, Santa María la Antigua del Darién, in Darién in 1510.  From the town of Vasco, Núñez de Balboa made his march to the Pacific in 1513.  Some of the refugees from Santa María went on to found Panama City in 1519.

Emberá Province was formed in 1922 from the Panama Province in eastern Panama consisting mostly of jungle and sparsely populated areas.  To this day there is no road through the dense Darién jungle to connect Panama with neighboring Colombia.  The Emberá and Wounaan Indians of Panama there are accomplished artisans and produce elaborate and detailed tagus carvings from seeds of the Tagua tree.  These gentle and timid people look and dress as they did when Columbus arrived in the 1500s.  Emberá Territory, was created in 1998 from a portion of Darién Province

We swung our legs over the edge of the rubber boats, lowered ourselves into the shallow surf, and waded to the beach not far from the Emberá's thatched native buildings -- a typical "wet" landing.  Inside the huts, young women with layers of colorful necklaces (partly) covering their breasts were weaving baskets.  The men gathered in the largest palapa (the community building) to prepare for some festive music and dancing to celebrate our arrival.  The February climate is quite pleasant due to the cold Humboldt Current that moderates the coastline temperatures.

The Emberá lifestyle is primitive but remarkably easy for a forest-bound people.  Before the Panamanian government declared the Rio Chagres area a national park, the subsistence-level Emberá hunted and farmed and struggled for their rights to continue to live in their customary peaceful lifestyle.  These people are generally quite small and sinewy, but the younger generation will, in time, most likely add an inch or two to the tribe's overall average height.  With the National Park Declaration, they had to find an alternative life style.  The Emberá instead had a Renaissance.  They went into business to sell, well, ...themselves!

Click on the following thumbnails for larger views
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An interesting characteristic of these people is that they won't accept money as gifts.  The Panamanian Government, therefore, gave them a sidewalk!  The Pacific Explorer crew collects donations from the guests, finds out what the Emberá would find useful, such as school books to learn Spanish, and buys it for them.  The natives speak their own language dating back at least 500 years and have to LEARN Spanish, since it's not their native language.